Shampoo's Frothy Promises

by Janna Leyde

The label says "Lather up and rinse," but it's what the label doesn't tell you that may keep your sudsy shower ritual from cleaning as it should. Rather than "clarifying," "hydrating" or "de-frizzing," your shampoo may be washing suspect chemicals into your hair and skin.

For his recent book Safe Trip to Eden (Thunder's Mouth Press, 2007, $16.95), David Steinman, an environmental-health advocate, sent samples of various shampoos to a research lab to have them tested for the suspected human carcinogen 1,4-dioxane, a by-product formed when ingredients are "ethoxylated," or converted, into other ingredients. For instance, the irritating sudsing agent sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is often ethoxylated into the milder sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).

What he found was disturbing. Traces of dioxane were detected in almost every product, and 15 percent of the shampoos contained amounts above the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) suggested maximum of 10 parts per million. "I'm aware that not every product is going to be contaminated with dioxane," says Steinman, "but I have consistently found that every six out of ten are."

Unfortunately, there's no way of knowing the levels of dioxane in a product without regular testing, which the FDA doesn't require, so prevent possible exposures by avoiding personal care products that contain ethoxylated ingredients. Watch out for SLES, sodium myreth sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate along with other polyethylene glycol (PEG) compounds, including polyoxyethylene and phenoxyethanol.

"We need to see stricter standards in the personal care industry," says Stacy Malkan, spokesperson for The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. Malkan worked with Steinman on publishing the dioxane test results, and she is currently pushing the FDA for a ban on dioxane and other carcinogens and hormone disrupters found in personal care products.

Adopt a "simple is better" mentality when shopping, Malkan suggests. In addition to potential dioxane contamination, keep an eye out for other harmful chemicals, including hormone-disrupting phthalates, found in fragrances and polyvinyl chloride bottles and bottle caps, and preservatives that may emit or break down into the known carcinogen formaldehyde, such as diazolidinyl urea and quaternium compounds. For a complete list, see our Dirty Dozen Smart Shopper's Card.

Finally, since "natural" and other personal care product labels can be misleading, see our Smart Shopper's Non-Food Labels Card for the most reliable choices.

Shopping Suggestions

* Terressentials clay-based Pure Earth Hair Wash ($10.75; www.terressentials.com, 301-371-7333)

* Burt's Bees Very Volumizing Pomegranate and Soy shampoo ($8; www.burtsbees.com, 866-422-8787)

* Avalon Organics shampoos ($7.95; www.avalonorganics.com, 800-227-5120)

* Hamadi Ginger Soymilk, Honey Soymilk and Lemon Mint shampoos ($18; www.hamadibeauty.com).

* Aubrey Organics shampoos (starting at $10; www.aubrey-organics.com, 800-282-7394).

* Miessence Desert Flower shampoo ($15; www.amazon.com)

* California Baby shampoos and bubble baths (starting at $9; www.californiababy.com, 877-576-2825)